Illustrated Travel Journal: Part 8

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Ok so it’s already October, that means only two more firsts of the month for 2017, let’s not panic. I luckily (or lazily) have a couple of stories that happened in early months that have yet to be told, so let’s distract ourselves with some dinners and festivals that happened back in July before getting into what went down over the October holiday on Jeju Island…

Thur 20 July: Teachers’ Dinner
Sharing meals and drinks is a significant part of Korean culture. This applies to work life too and makes for quite anticipated dinner events among the teachers at my school. So far this year we’ve had a pork BBQ Dinner, a Hike + Duck Galbi Dinner, a Shabu-Shabu Dinner and last week we had a Hike + Raw Fish Dinner (that was an interesting one). But because this is a belated post, we’re skipping back to the July dinner which was probably the most delicious and “eventful” one: Shabu-Shabu. This meal is “a Japanese nabemono hotpot dish of thinly sliced meat and vegetables boiled in water,” and also includes (to my demise) a buffet of everything from sushi to fried chicken and pizza.41_Teachers-Dinner

The main hotpot soupy dish sits bubbling away in the middle of the table (with crab legs sticking out of the broth) and you add in all the veggies and interesting things, then dip the really thin slices of meat in with chopsticks for a couple of seconds only. You can use the round rice papers soaked in water to make a little meat, sauce and lettuce package which you shove in your mouth and try deal with the size and deliciousness of it. All this plus being fed beer and soju by colleagues and later the principal and vice.

It never ends there either, there’ll still be a post-dinner dish served, which should be the dessert course, but is a soup and rice serving of sorts instead. And more drinks. And then… you might just land up in a noraebang i.e. a karaoke room which involves singing, more snack foods (including fruit and dried squid, which is the Korean biltong of choice) and more beer and soju. And mind you, all of this on a school night. On vocals for a number of songs was the principal, a dignified 50+ man. Alongside him stood the vice principal, a similarly aged and mannered lady singing Korean ballads with my one co-teacher as the backup dancer and tambourine player. I unfortunately got coaxed into  singing an English song for everyone, by myself. We’ll leave it there. 

Sat-Sun 22-23 July: Mud Festival
Just days after our teachers’ dinner, I was off on a bus with a bunch of friends to Boryeong (about a 4 hour bus trip) to go and get covered in mud, go on mud slides etc at 보령머드축제. The mud is said to have beneficial minerals for your skin, so basically it’s an excuse to go wild for the good cause of skin enrichment. However, the event was packed. The queues to the mud slides and all the fun things in the mud park were too long and we ended up only doing mud wrestling, during which I got tackled too enthusiastically by my friend. We did leave the area fairly muddy, but it’s a rather watery covering which isn’t unpleasant. Luckily the mud park is right next to the beach so we joined the many others taking a natural bath in the magically warm sea, while floating a large plastic beer bottle amongst our group.52_MudfestThat night included the most spectacular fireworks I have ever seen. The ships were anchored off shore, shooting off the fireworks of different designs to the rhythm of the music playing, the lights reflecting on the water while we stood in awe on the beach. This was the definitely the highlight of the trip. There were also Kpop performances on the main stage on the beach and other festivities going on.

 

Tues 19 Sept: Baseball
This was possibly the most fun I’ve had on a Tuesday night in a long time. I’m not much of a sports fan, but it was the end of the baseball season and when next would I ever get the chance to watch this very non-South-African sport? 53_Baseball.jpgWell to be honest I spent very little of my time there watching the game. It was way more fun watching the cheerleaders and mascots in the front while chanting the individual player’s chant with the crowd when they scored. One of the chants was for “Andy Bonzoo” (the American playing for Busan), which I only found out the next day that his surname is actually ‘Burns’. Ah, Korean pronunciation! But our pronunciation of the Korean players’ names was suspect too and we relied on the big screen to try decipher how to say their names during the chants.

Near the end of the game, orange plastic bags are distributed to the audience for trash collection. However, it is customary to take the bag, catch air and tie a knot then put the bag balloon on your head and hook each handle over your ears to make a nifty head-piece while everyone sings the Lotte-Lot-te-Lott-tehhh-Looooooooooh-teeeeh song.
I left the stadium without realising that I didn’t even know who had won.

Fri 22 Sep: Just another day in 6th grade
I’m now used to the kids throwing pencil cases around, tackling each other, erasing things off the board, knocking over chairs, ringing the desk bell and going through the papers on the teacher’s desk. But this story will beat all the other incidents of them being wild between classes:
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Disclaimer: They are better behaved during the lesson, but in the 10min between classes, these types of behaviours can be expected, especially with this grade.

CHUSEOK HOLIDAY
Tue-Sun 03-08 Oct: Jeju Island adventure
Who wouldn’t love a 10 day holiday to look forward to? So after a few free days to play around in Busan, a couple of friends and I went with EnjoyKorea , a great English tour company (free advertising right here) to the honeymoon island of Jeju – a mere 9 hour, 2 bus trips and a ferry worth to get to this large island south of Korea for 5 nights. 55_Jeju-intro

Might I add that we left at 1am in the morning from Busan to get there by 10am, which we used the rest of the day to lie on the beach, eat chips and nap. Unfortunately it wasn’t quite warm enough to convince me to swim as I sat there in jeans and a hoody, I mean it is Autumn here. Our hotel was pretty sweet with a lovely big pool (once again, no swimming for me) with the ocean in view. We were in a room of 4, but luckily there were two single beds, and only 2 “floor beds” ondol style. Beds are a bonus in Korea!

We had a really decent itinerary over the 6 days, which included enough sightseeing to let us see what Jeju has to offer (things are rather spread out over the island though) and balanced with a lot of down-time to chill or explore or find restaurants (and craft beer shops). We also played a lot of cards on this trip, just FYI.

Day 1-2: A temple, Gold Buddha, little Holland, 3 waterfalls and a tequila night with water slides and ball pits:56_Jeju-1

Day 3: Love Land
The sex theme park full of humour and pleasure…

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Day 4: Craters and Caves
We missed seeing the diving ajummas that day because of the bad weather but we did get to hike up the stair-cased mountain to see the large crater and then later go into the volcanic tube caves. 
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We did a good few hours on the bus that day and I can say Jeju has a lot of horses. Random fact. And it’s known for its oranges. And the many dol haraubang stone statues that look like penis men. 

Day 5-6: Free day, beach day.
We spent a lazy day wandering around the nearest town (Hyeopjae), looking at hippie shops (odd for Korea), and chilling on the beach. We also found a rather hipster container yard of shops and restaurants. 
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Namhae Oktoberfest:
After an early start of bus-ferry-bus and about 6 hours later, we made a slight detour to Namhae and its little German Village for the Korean edition of OktoberFest.

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What a random and magical little German-themed town kitted out with beer stalls along the streets selling great German drafts, people in lederhosen and dirndlsworst and of course Korean music for the occasion (?). The closest we can get to Europe right now.
We got home around 9pm and still had the Monday off to recover the next day. A fantastic Chuseok break, I’d say.

Thanks for scrolling! Part 9 to follow soon…

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Illustrated Travel Journal: Part 6

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Bingsu (빙수): A popular Korean shaved-ice dessert, especially during the summer season, with sweet toppings that may include chocolate, chopped fruit, condensed milk, fruit syrup, and red beans. 

And what did you take from that besides something about dessert and condensed milk? SUMMER!! But, not the happy-it’s-time-for-beach-and-sunblock kind of summer. No. Korean summers are not that happy-go-lucky. These summers are hot and humid. And it’s just July… Already the amount of joy you get from the great outdoors quickly melts into a sweaty puddle on the floor and your sanity can only be found beneath the air conditioner, while hiding indoors (thankfully this includes public transport). But, if you do venture outside, I do highly recommend treating yourself to bingsu! 

Weekly night club runs
I joined the OVD Running Club a couple of months ago who meet every Thursday night at 8pm to enjoy and explore Busan while running past some really lovely sights lit by stars and streetlights (and a small boombox for jams on the move). 

40_Run-BusanAs much as we run, we photograph. Sometimes I think the lines between running club and photography club are blurred with a good number of photo stops for group shots posing with our club flag and some impressive site behind us. The pace is fairly quick so often these stops are needed though. 

 

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09 June 2017 / Fri: Bottomless Beer Fest

Okay, so just a  ₩10 000 (R115) entrance fee into a little land of unlimited beer for a few hours? Of course I’d beer there!

It was just Hite beer (one of the popular local brews), but once you got a beer mug/cup upon arrival you could literally pour your own beer from then on out.

We did well. I’d like to report.

 

24 June / Sat: Lost on the Run
Some context to this image, at the time I had a commercial illustration project with weekend deadlines and a very particular style I had to adapt to and obsess with over a short amount of time. So it consumed my thoughts and my weekend (and this illustration). By Saturday evening I hadn’t left my house or done much else other than sitting in front of my computer.
Having lived in Korea for 4 months now, I had yet to go for a road run by myself. It’s one thing to get stared at as a foreigner walking around normally in public spaces, but it’s another to be a running and sweaty foreigner thudding along the roadsides with no other joggers around, ever.

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Anyway! I set off around 7pm to beat the heat (if that’s possible), and after a good few km’s and dwindling light I found myself running in circles and coming back to the same start of a highway with no pedestrian paths. After some more time, slight panicking and more running, I managed to navigate back to the known.

25 June / Sun: Burgers & Bingsu
Maybe I’m just looking for things to draw, but being reunited with avo, my love (and on the best burger I’ve had here) combined with a chilled Sunday lunch with friends – it just seemed drawable. Topped off with a trip to the bingsu cafe afterwards and my weekend was complete. 

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As with most Korean dishes, it’s meant to be shared so you get a huge bowl piled with the shaved ice base topped with chocolate brownies, cheesecake and a side of condensed milk and two or more spoons. Are you sold yet?

03 July / Mon: Summer Nights
Too hot. Beep. Too cold. Beep. Buzz. Buzz. Slap! Toss. Turn. Buzz. I’M GOING TO KILL YOU!! 3am. Toss. Turn. Alarm. Damn.
I really shouldn’t say anything bad about my aircon/life support, but it blows directly onto my bed so it’s either Antarctic blizzard when it’s on or Sahara Dessert when it’s off.

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And when it’s off, the mosquitoes make sure to use the opportunity of not being blown away anymore to come buzz around and sit ON my face. So I end up semi-consciously slapping my face in the hopes of killing those bloodsuckers! Mozzies: 1. Amy: 0.

How much is that doggie in the window cage?
I live quite close to Busan’s main dog meat market at Gupo Market and unfortunately I drive past the alleys with the red cages holding these poor fluff balls on my way to work every day.38_Doggie1

09 July / Sun: Sunday Strolls
Since I’ve found that the closest park to me is a manageable 3km away, I’ve started making a Sunday strolling habit out of it to have a nice end of weekend walk. I get to watch people roller blading, kids riding bikes, and old people working out on the equipment. People-watching hot spot, I tell you!   
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This Sunday included taking the tools and opportunity down to Hwamyeong Eco Park to have a quick sketch on damp paper, thanks to the humidity.

Thanks for scrolling! Part 7 to follow soon…

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